Derek Rielly

France’s queen of big-wave surfing reveals harrowing near-death episode on wild eighty-foot wave at Nazaré’s day of days on Jan 8, “I took a huge wipeout which brought me right in front of the cliff. The place where no one wants to be…” – BeachGrit

A bombshell confession plus spine-chilling images of her brush with death from one of the world's premier big-wave shredders! The French big-wave surfer, the first woman to surf mythical outer-reef