Within the subsequent installment of Surf Cinema Sundays powered through TheSurfNetwork, we’re going to turn “A Sea For Your self,”  integrated to your Surfline Top rate club. We’ll proceed appearing iconic surf motion pictures each different Sunday. (Subsequent up: ‘Bella Vita’, October 25th.) When you’re no longer already Top rate, join a Surfline unfastened trial right here, and you’ll be able to additionally circulate/hire the movie through going to TheSurfNetwork’s website

[FAQ: How to watch Surf Cinema Sunday films]

All you ever listen in this day and age is, “it’s gotten so crowded.” Hell, I’ll have already stated it myself a half-dozen instances prior to this tale’s posted. However upon viewing the past due Hal Jepsen’s 2d surf movie, A Sea For Your self, you’ll briefly notice, “Smartly, I suppose it was once crowded again then, too.”

There are moments, on the other hand — between all of the human ldl cholesterol and fiberglass shrapnel — which are natural magic. The pumping sort. The empty sort. Doesn’t subject if you happen to’re speaking 1971 or 2021, it’s in the market. All the time has been, at all times might be. You simply have to head, uh… see for your self.

From the demolition derbies across the authentic Dogtown deathtrap, POP Pier, to the lonely, roping rights of Ventura’s California Boulevard; from North Shore burnathons to Maui meditation chambers — Jepsen left no stone unturned in his two-year quest to juxtapose chaos with sublimity, documenting the entirety that was once the rest on the planet of surf all over the early 1970s. Which it seems that integrated the Giant Surf wave gadget in Arizona (yeah, that they had ‘em long ago then), Hobie Cat tow-ats, the Shortboard Revolution’s dysfunctional anorexic segment, and the sluggish delivery of full-neoprene coverage. Naturally, the less warm Hal’s group ventured, the fewer surfers they encountered.

Whilst Hawaii, California, Australia, even South Africa were widely coated through the day’s surf filmmakers, what Jepsen and his megastar surfer, Jeff Hakman, stumbled upon in September of 1971 was once not anything wanting revelatory, anchoring Hal’s very planned theme, which the narrator delivers from the get-go: “Without equal excitement of browsing for many surfers is driving excellent waves on your own and sharing them with your folks or with no longer too many others.”

Surfline rang up Hakman for some backstory.


Photograph: Jeff Divine

Surfline: How did you come back to satisfy Hal Jepsen?

Jeff Hakman: Roy Crump got here to me and stated, “Jeff, I’ve a chum through the identify of Hal Jepsen that wish to come and do a film in Hawaii.” Hal had by no means been right here prior to, he simply had a zeal to make a surf film. So Crump presented us and we communicated, then Hal came visiting to the North Shore within the Spring of 1969. He didn’t know the place the spots have been, he didn’t know the rest. He simply were given off the airplane and he was once lovely inexperienced. However Hal was once a truly great man, so I took him to Haleiwa and Sundown and Pipeline and confirmed him the place to shoot, then I took him to Maui to shoot Honolua Bay, and after about 5 weeks he’d gotten all that pictures for Cosmic Youngsters. That season was once so excellent, it was once like novice’s success. Hal had lucked into all this surf, so he idea, “Wow, Hawaii will have to be like this always!” Which it isn’t [laughs], but it surely was once when Hal was once right here.

That first movie, Cosmic Youngsters (1970), was once an immediate hit and facilitated your subsequent journey in combination, A Sea For Your self, which is jam-packed with ‘70s superstars — from BK and Ben Aipa to Jay Riddle and Terry Fitzgerald — ripping in all places from Peru to Kauai. Which travel stood out for you?

The next September, Hal got here up with the speculation to visit France, so we hopped on a airplane and flew to Germany as it was once the most affordable. We arrived in Stuttgart, purchased a bit Volkswagen for $350, and began heading against France, no longer understanding the rest in regards to the position or the place to head. Again within the past due ‘60s and early ‘70s, the one approach yow will discover out about stuff was once to speak to folks that were there, as a result of there have been no commute brochures, and there for sure was once no Web, and the guidelines was once truly selective. There have been simply those little tribes of folks from South Africa or Australia or anywhere who’d inform you the place to stick and the place to surf, however if you happen to didn’t know the ones little teams of folks, you wouldn’t hassle to head. All we knew about France was once Biarritz. That’s it. So we began heading thru that black wooded area in Germany, they usually didn’t have all of the auto routes in France like they do now, so the entirety was once little again roads. Coming down from Paris we noticed an indication, Hossegor, which I’d heard anyone point out as soon as, so we grew to become off the path nationale, drove into Hossegor and parked proper at Los angeles Graviere.


Jeff Hakman. Photograph: Jeff Divine

Maximum surf movies from that technology featured all of the mandatory Hawaii, California and Australia pictures, however that Hossegor phase was once one thing else totally.

I take into account that second really well. It was once September 1st. There was once that lovely, late-afternoon French texture, it was once about seven within the night time however nonetheless gentle out, and there was once no one at the seaside. And I imply no longer one unmarried particular person. As a result of again then, the tip of August was once like, “lighting out, birthday party’s over.” Everyone leaves the coast without delay and is going again to Paris or England or anywhere they’d come from. The waves have been very best — six or seven-foot, backlit inexperienced barrels spinning alongside the sandbar — and there was once one man out browsing. His identify was once Mike Miller, and I knew him truly smartly. We used to surf Sundown and Waimea in combination, and he was once in the market all through himself… without a garments on. He was once completely bare!

No approach! The place have been ya on that clip, Hal?

Yeah [laughs], I used to be like, “Holy shit, have a look at this position, guy!” It was once like a dream, so I went in the market and Mike instructed me, “Yeah, I’ve been right here for approximately a month or so, and it’s incredible!” I requested him, “Good day, may you display us the place to stick and stuff?” and he is going, “Yeah, Jeff, don’t fear about it. Simply surf, then I’ll display you the entirety.” So we by no means made it to Biarritz [laughs]. Between the tides, the offshore winds, and all of the other sandbars, we simply went, “How lengthy has this freakin’ position been right here?” As a result of again then, Hossegor wasn’t truly well known in any respect, it was once extra of an off-the-roadmap spot. So we were given a bit condo and simply stayed there for the entire month of September. And that’s the place maximum of Hal’s pictures from France was once taken.


Jackie Dunn, Pipeline. Photograph: Jeff Divine

Yeah, that Biarritz pictures is lovely forgettable in comparison to the Los angeles Grav stuff.

, we handiest ended up going to Biarritz 3 or 4 instances, simply to visit eating places and stuff. We surfed that massive left, Los angeles Barre, which was once essentially the most well-known surf spot in France in the ones days. They didn’t have a lot surf tradition again then, it was once truly uncooked and the French roots have been nonetheless very robust. Only a few folks spoke English. There have been more than likely handiest 3 French surfers, and 8 surfers general, in Hossegor: Jean-Louis Bianco and every other French man, a pair Australians, Mike Diffenderfer, Gerry [Lopez] may’ve been there, too… No one spoke to one another, however for some reason why there was once a bit migration from Hawaii that 12 months. Now not prior to, no longer after, simply that exact 12 months. I feel it was once 1971.

How did that point in France parlay into your occupation as a businessman?

Oh, I had one of these magical time that 12 months — the entirety from the waves to the meals to the way of living to the gorgeous women — France was once so other it was once virtually mystical. And I for sure met some excellent folks, so that you can solution that, once I had the risk in 1984 to do Quiksilver over there and feature the license, it was once a slam dunk for me. I simply went, “Receives a commission to visit France? Yeah, I do know where! I’m in!”

Any remaining phrases about Hal Jepsen?

Hal was once a bit little bit of a visionary. Even along with his first film, I believed calling it Cosmic Youngsters was once a bit in the market, however he was once useless set on it, and it in truth labored. Hal was once very passionate. And he was once a bit offbeat. He traveled to the music of his personal drum, and that’s why he did one of the vital stuff he did [like adding those trippy effects and Arnie Wong’s “Karma” cartoon], and that’s what made him distinctive. I’ve truly excellent recollections from making the ones motion pictures with Hal. The ones have been particular instances, when that you must nonetheless in finding uncrowded, unexplored spaces in a spot like France. The entirety’s so subtle now with the Web and all of the generation, and… I suppose it’s an development, however on the identical time one of the vital journey’s been misplaced. Discovering a place for the primary time and browsing it with simply a few pals, I’m satisfied I were given to revel in that.

Top rate Perks: One Loose Surf Film Apartment From TheSurfNetwork. Eligible Top rate individuals redeem right here.


A Sea For Your self


Surf Cinema Sundays Season 2 Agenda


September 27: Stoked and Broke
October 11: A Sea For Your self
October 25: Bella Vita
November 8: Bruce Brown Double Characteristic: Slippery When Rainy/Surfing Hole Days
November 22: Sultans of Velocity
December 6: Tremendous Slide
December 20: Sojourn

Supply hyperlink