Whilst using waves in a susceptible place dates again to the traditional Hawaiians, on hand-carved forums referred to as paipos, it wasn’t till 1973 that the game was a world phenomenon. That’s when eccentric surfer and inventor Tom Morey advertised his Morey Boogie to the sector – and thus created one in every of waveriding’s largest rivalries.

Bodyboarders and surfers have feuded within the lineup ever since. However because the surf international slowly creeps out of its narrow-minded ideological previous – and into an accepting area of various board shapes, sizes, and fabrics – the connection between bodyboarders and surfers hasn’t ever been higher. Hell, as soft-tops proceed to brush the surf international in recognition, even most sensible professionals had been turning to the darkish aspect and using susceptible.

And so, in birthday celebration of our boogie brethren, this movie presentations an inside of glance into that international. Give it an eye beneath; we extremely counsel it. After which after, take a look at our chat with some of the absolute best residing waveriders, without reference to board sort, Mike Stewart, about bodyboarding historical past, development, and why each surfer will have to give the boog a move.

How’d this movie come about?

So, Todd Barnes, the man who made the movie, he and I were operating in combination for my board corporate [Science Bodyboards]. I knew he used to be a truly just right skill. Any individual approached me to do a larger movie, person who sorta instructed a tale. So, I assumed Todd will be the man. And we went for it.

The venture kicked off in February, when the maintaining duration for the Pipeline Invitational began. He flew over to Hawaii for the development, so he may movie that and interview everybody who used to be there. He completed the primary draft of the movie a few month in the past – then there have been only some tweaks and fine-tuning to be finished.

It’s a perfect identify, via the best way. Is there a deeper which means to it? Are bodyboarders portrayed as dangerous guys, like boogiemen?

That’s a query for Todd. However from my very own enjoy, I feel that has one thing to do with it. I feel it’s a tradition that’s now not rather understood. There’s most likely a twin which means within the identify. It’s a play on phrases, evidently, however I feel it speaks to the bodyboard international – and the outdoor belief of it – to a deeper stage.


Mike Stewart, Pipeline. Picture: gOnzo

For individuals who aren’t cued into the bodyboarding international, how has the game advanced over time? Like from whilst you did a barrel roll at Pipe, which the movie presentations, to nowadays?

That maneuver at Pipe used to be revolutionary at its time, and the game has improved significantly additional nowadays. Now, you’re seeing guys and women doing larger maneuvers in heavier waves. That’s the clearest development that bodyboarding has observed – gnarlier strikes, gnarlier waves.

For the reason that recreation isn’t within the limelight such a lot, numerous folks most likely don’t know the way a ways it has advanced. There are those extremely gifted people who’re doing this relatively difficult to understand factor. Those guys and women are so just right, the extent is so prime. It’s atypical to me that extra folks don’t find out about it. That’s the object – it’s lowkey. It’s those folks doing it, those masters and unbelievable athletes, doing it in rather obscurity. It makes it lovely core and lovely cool, in a way.

The movie presentations closing 12 months’s Pipe Invitational…does the bodyboard pageant international range from browsing?

This closing 12 months on the Pipe Invitational, we went to a structure that used to be simply totally open. There’re some upsides to that and a few downsides – however I feel the usaoutweigh the down.

So, there have been no set laws to the way you rode the board. That you must think any posture you sought after. It additionally didn’t topic when you had been a person or a lady. It used to be simply totally open. No matter you want to do on a boog at Pipe, that used to be scored. All inclusive. As you were given nearer to the semis and finals, it was extra like a conventional tournament. However guys and women had been nonetheless ready to growth to the finals and now not be restricted to mendacity susceptible at the board.

That’s one side of bodyboarding that’s very sexy. There aren’t any laws. You’ll trip it in such a lot of alternative ways. It’s very common in that means.


“Bodyboarding gives an intimacy with waveriding,” says Mike. “You’re decrease to the wave, the board is kinetic, you’ll be able to really feel the wave power much more.” Picture: gOnzo

Do you suppose surfers get inspiration from bodyboarders? What about vice versa?

If you happen to’re a waverider, and particularly at a better stage, you’re taking a look at everybody. The whole lot turns into a power. It doesn’t topic what it’s, you’ll be able to see attractiveness in each form of waveriding.

Bodyboarding gives an intimacy with waveriding. You’re decrease to the wave, the board is kinetic, you’ll be able to really feel the wave power much more. Bodyboarding may be so much much less about appearances. You simply take hold of and move – it’s a unconditionally private enjoy.

Any other factor that bodyboarding does, is it opens up the world of chance on the subject of what waves you’ll be able to trip. Tight, steep, and within the barrel is the principle area of bodyboarding. Up to now, bodyboarders had been the leaders when it got here to aerials. That’s nonetheless the case in tremendous heavy and hole surf. However on a three-foot wave, there’s no solution to compete with the velocity and dynamics {that a} surfboard gives. However in large, hole waves – it’s an excessive amount of power for a surfboard to deal with.

For a very long time, bodyboarding has at all times been sorta like a glimpse into the longer term. Take a look at slabby waves. Bodyboarders truly pioneered that realm. A big a part of bodyboarding is making an attempt to trip what used to be up to now unrideable. The bodyboard is a great way to harness power and redirect it – as opposed to a surfboard is just right for producing power and pace. In that sense, you’ll be able to regulate truly heavy and thick waves so much more uncomplicated on a bodyboard.

Additionally, one thing that’s distinctive to a bodyboard, is the site at the wave that it lets in for. You’ll do issues truly deep. You’ll roll within the barrel; you’ll be able to rotate within the barrel. I feel sooner or later, you’ll be seeing guys doing that on surfboards.

“It’s only a natural and free-spirited solution to move out and trip waves. There’re no laws – simply move out and do it.”

It sort of feels like much more surfers are beginning to pick out up bodyboards. Have you ever spotted extra surfers crossing over in recent years than up to now?

Completely. I feel that’s so cool. You’re seeing guys like Jamie O’Brien and Kalani Robb embracing the boog. Then, you’ve were given guys like Tom Curren – it’s been an obsession of his for years. He’s been standup boogeying for a very long time. It’s a great neat generation that we’re in, as a result of persons are rather less hung-up on a selected means of doing issues. They’re taking the apparatus out of the equation and attending to the actual center of this factor all of us do – which is using waves for the joys of it.

It’s only a natural and free-spirited solution to move out and trip waves. There’re no laws – simply move out and do it. I feel that’s tremendous wholesome for humanity as a complete. [Laughs.] That free-spirited nature and openness and loss of ego could be very contagious.

How has the competition between bodyboarders and surfers advanced over time?

As of late, it’s in a a lot better position than it was. I feel everybody’s a bit of extra openminded about the whole lot. They’re dropping that prejudice and bias a little extra.

It’s human nature to discover a reference to issues which can be commonplace. It used to be most likely a survival intuition – the place you may gravitate against your tribe and repel others outdoor of your tribe. That’s truly a primitive way of thinking.

Early on, I feel numerous surfers felt threatened via bodyboarding. It grew truly fast. I feel shapers and surfers had been more or less worried of ways large it were given so temporarily. As it used to be such an easy-to-use craft, anyone may do it. It gave anyone get admission to to the waves. And as a result of that, there have been a host of people that had no clue about surf etiquette that began doing it.


Mike at Pipe, with the peanut gallery (of surfers) staring at on. Picture: gOnzo

I consider numerous classes at heavy waves – like even Pipe, or the Wedge, or Sandy Seaside – there can be those green individuals who had no industry of being available in the market. Subsequent factor you already know, they’re available in the market with you within the lineup. And it’s like 10-foot Pipe.

So, I feel there used to be a pair sides that made that competition occur. It’s one thing I’ve considered so much, as a result of I’ve been the topic of that bias. It is going again to rising up, and fascinated by it, and making an attempt to determine why. Like, “that is one thing I experience doing. It’s now not harming you or effecting you. So, why is it a unfavourable factor?” However it’s truly cool to look folks beginning to embody it.

What do you hope the movie presentations to the browsing international about bodyboarding tradition?

I am hoping that folks can see that it’s only a a laugh process. Jeff Hubbard sums it up within the movie completely: “You simply can’t take it too severely.” Even supposing it’s the sort of large a part of my lifestyles, the main reason why I’m doing it’s because it’s stress-free. That’s all. It’s simply a laugh.

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