The greatest surfer in history, Kelly Slater, got a look at Waimea that morning and took a pass. He’s won this contest before (2002), but “I just wasn’t feeling it,” Slater, who turns 51 next month, said in a local television interview. “That’s happened to me on different swells over the years, where I just don’t feel comfortable. I talked to Tony Moniz (a storied surfer of years past) and he told me, ‘Then don’t go. And don’t feel weird about it.’”

Slater decided to give up his spot to veteran surfer Chris Owens, long respected for his surfing and long-distance paddleboarding, and Slater’s gracious gesture was roundly appreciated. “Chris had never surfed the Eddie, and I’m super happy,” he said. “We hugged it out. He was almost crying.”

There’s nothing in the surfing world like “The Eddie.” It has run only 10 times since its inception in 1986, for it must meet the highest standards and get officially called that morning, not the day or week before. It honors the legacy of the North Shore’s first lifeguard, who died at sea in 1978 in a valiant attempt to get help for people stranded on a storm-ravaged canoe.

Some 50,000 people crowded the beach and highway vantage points. It felt like a scene from some other time, with no scores posted on the webcast, no scoreboard for witnesses to follow and little financial reward. When you can’t promise when or if something will take place, big-time television revenue does not exist. “We’re gonna run this event even if we’re surfing for coconuts,” said meet organizer Clyde Aikau, Eddie’s younger brother, at the opening ceremony two weeks ago.

“I didn’t find out until about midway through the day that they’d come up with some prize money,” Mel said, “and they wound up giving something to everybody ($10,000 to winner Luke Shepardson, trickling down to $1,000 for fifth through eighth place, then $500 for everyone else). And nobody cared. We were honoring Eddie, his life, his purpose in surfing, his spirit. I think we were all humbled in that regard.”

On the surfline.com website, esteemed journalist Nick Carroll called it “surely the best event in surfing history.” It was decidedly cool that the victorious Luke Shepardson was an on-duty Waimea Bay lifeguard granted one-hour breaks to surf his heats, pushing the great John John Florence into second place. The likes of Twiggy Baker, Keala Kennelly, Billy Kemper and Kohl Christensen were among those taking free-fall wipeouts that were frightening to behold. Unbridled heroics ruled the day, and for Mel, who finished a very respectable 14th, the last of his three successful rides was the best.

Negotiating the elevator-steep drop to reach the bottom, Mel found himself alongside Shane Dorian, a big-wave mainstay he’s known since Mel’s first trip to Hawaii in 1984. A Waimea wave can be shared, with the proper expertise, and they wound up gliding together to joyously lock hands as they eased out the back.

“We’re both like 50 now, we’re both still doin’ it,” Mel said. “It was a big wave, radical drop, and we’re screaming at the top of our lungs right next to each other. That was the pinnacle.”

Kindred spirits

For the first time in contest history, there were six women in the heats: Kennelly, Paige Alms, Andrea Moller, Justine Dupont, Emi Erickson and Makani Adric, each finishing in the 31-40 range in the final tally. Valenti dearly wanted to join them, but she was the No. 1 alternate and the opportunity never came.

“Disappointing, for sure, but I’ve had a great month over here,” Valenti said Thursday night. “Surfing spots all over, including one day at Waimea when I caught five really nice ones — best day I’ve ever had there. It’s been non-stop, just weeks of great conditions, and I’ve been going hard. I’m ready to come back and just sit up in the mountains for a couple of days.”