New study from the University of the North Shore finds advanced exposure to consequences has rewired decision-making

They Are Not Like Us and the Data Confirms It

I have watched a lot of big wave surfing footage in my life. I have never once thought “that looks fun.” I have, however, thought “that looks like something a person would do right before a very dramatic press release.” The gap between my reaction and the surfer’s reaction is, apparently, the subject of serious academic inquiry in Hawaii.

The Study

Researchers at the University of the North Shore published findings this week suggesting that big wave surfing Hawaii athletes demonstrate measurably different threat assessment responses than the general population. “We showed them footage of 60-foot Peahi faces and monitored their cortisol levels,” said lead researcher Dr. Makena Holloway. “They were lower than when we showed them traffic.” She paused. “Significantly lower.”

The study included 40 participants, 38 of whom immediately asked if they could go surf after the session. The other two asked if the footage was available in 4K.

What This Means For The Rest of Us

For most humans, a Peahi Jaws surf wipeout represents a life-altering physical catastrophe. For the study’s participants, it represented “a learning opportunity” and “honestly not the worst one this season.” One subject asked if the researchers needed a boat. He was not kidding.

The Surfer editorial team has covered Jaws for three decades and still sounds mildly shocked every time someone paddles out. This is the correct response. Never lose the shock.

A Personal Note

I once bailed on a 6-foot beach break because the paddle out looked annoying. I have made peace with this. The surf psychology literature suggests I am operating with full factory-standard human fear responses. This is fine. This is correct. The scientists agree.

More brave nonsense documented at bohiney.com

SOURCE: https://www.surfer.com/feed